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      07-24-2017, 12:03 PM   #1
JNoSol
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DIY - Advance Performance Lowering Links (G11/G12)

Hello 7'ers,

Since the day I had my 750, I've been holding off on getting wheels until someone released a lowering solution. The stock ride height left a huge wheel gap so it would look very odd with more aggressive wheels and tires.

I hope the DIY write-up below is helpful. I'm very cautious of not breaking the sensors or bending any brackets, so I did it the harder route by pulling all brackets off the car then swap the links. Better to be safe than sorry they always say. You could do this without removing the wheels, but it's much easier with the wheels off. Total project time is around 2hrs.

AP Links Product Info (Advance Performance Link): http://advanceperformance.com/news/?p=2510
Purchase Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-17-BMW-...-/152456012170
Wheels: Signature Fully Forged Monoblock SV108 - 21x9 ET15 front and 21x10.5 ET30 rear (7LB lighter per corner compared to OEM 20")
Signature Wheel BMW
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sport - 255/35/21 front and 295/30/21 rear


Tools Needed:
- Floor Jack
- BMW Jack Pad Adapter (I use Burger Tuning jack pad adapter)
- Ratchet and 10mm socket
- Torque Wrench/Ratchet and 17mm socket (to remove the wheels, optional)
- Caliper Measuring Tool or Tape Measurer if you don't have a Caliper Tool
- Plier

AP Performance Links Includes:
- Installation Instructions
- 2xZinc Plated Front Lowering Links (Shorter - Pre-adjusted 1/4" Longer = 1" lower ride)
- 2xZinc Plated Rear Lowering Links (Longer - Pre-adjusted 1/4" Shorter = 1" lower ride)



***Park your vehicle on a flat/leveled surface, then measure all 4 corners from the ground to the fender lines. You can then determine how much you'll need to lower based on your taste. I only lowered mine by 3/4" all around.***

Front Lowering


1) Raise the front of the vehicle, remove the wheel, locate the front links and remove the 2x 10mm nuts/bolts.


2) Measure the links to make sure the new links are about 1/4" "Longer" than the factory ones. Lengthening the the front links by every 2 turns = 1/4" lower ride height.



3) Swap the links and reinstall the brackets with the 10mm nuts/bolts. Do not over-tighten the 10mm nuts/bolts (around 6-7ft-lb or the same force required to remove the nuts/bolts).



4) Reinstall the wheel, lower the vehicle, and repeat the other front side. Torque the 17mm wheel bolts to around 102ft-lb.

Rear Lowering


1) Raise the front of the vehicle, remove the wheel, locate the front links and remove the 2x 10mm nuts/bolts.



2) Measure the links to make sure the new links are about 1/4" "Shorter" than the factory ones. Shortening the the rear links by every 2 turns = 1/4" lower ride height.


3) Swap the links and reinstall the brackets with the 10mm nuts/bolts. Do not over-tighten the 10mm nuts/bolts (around 6-7ft-lb or the same force required to remove the nuts/bolts).



4) Reinstall the wheel, lower the vehicle, and repeat the other front side. Torque the 17mm wheel bolts to around 102ft-lb.

***Once completed, drive the car around (in sport mode if you have it) and then park at the same location you measured to see if they're evenly lowered all around. If not, you'll need to make minor adjustments to the links until it's even all around. After making adjustments you'll need to lock the nut. ***




Hope you'll appreciate this DIY. Cheers.
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Last edited by JNoSol; 07-24-2017 at 02:11 PM..
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      07-27-2017, 01:31 PM   #2
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Nicely done!
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      07-28-2017, 07:07 AM   #3
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Wow...the car looks amazing.
I didn't know these links can lower the car!
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      08-01-2017, 08:15 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gds52 View Post
Wow...the car looks amazing.
I didn't know these links can lower the car!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malu59RT View Post
Nicely done!
Quote:
Originally Posted by gds52 View Post
Wow...the car looks amazing.
I didn't know these links can lower the car!
Thank you.

For Air Suspension: All these links do is trick the sensors to thinking the car is at normal ride height, but in actuality it is lower. No change is ride quality. As long as you don't slam it, no risk of bottoming out.
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      08-03-2017, 11:54 AM   #5
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So you essentially did 8 turns on the front and rear links to get an even 1" lower ride all around? Any issues with the rear passenger that people were complaining about in the "lower g11 thread"?
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      08-03-2017, 07:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatinumEdition View Post
So you essentially did 8 turns on the front and rear links to get an even 1" lower ride all around? Any issues with the rear passenger that people were complaining about in the "lower g11 thread"?
I didn't count the turns, I used a digital caliper tool to ensure the new ones were precisely 1/4" longer in front and 1/4" shorter in the rear. The total lowered height is 3/4" all around.

As for rides, can't tell the difference. Since we have air, the height readjust with more load so having more passengers is irrelevant to the height/ride.
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      08-03-2017, 08:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol View Post
I didn't count the turns, I used a digital caliper tool to ensure the new ones were precisely 1/4" longer in front and 1/4" shorter in the rear. The total lowered height is 3/4" all around.

As for rides, can't tell the difference. Since we have air, the height readjust with more load so having more passengers is irrelevant to the height/ride.
1/4" in adjustment from the stock link length to achieve 3/4" all around? Just installed my Vorsteiner V-FF 107's, want to understand the links correctly before lowering them tomorrow!
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      08-04-2017, 10:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatinumEdition View Post
1/4" in adjustment from the stock link length to achieve 3/4" all around? Just installed my Vorsteiner V-FF 107's, want to understand the links correctly before lowering them tomorrow!
Correct.
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      08-04-2017, 02:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol View Post
Correct.
Thank you!
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      08-05-2017, 12:23 AM   #10
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Did you have an issue with the car not coming down when you raise it via the button in the center console?
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      08-06-2017, 01:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlatinumEdition View Post
Did you have an issue with the car not coming down when you raise it via the button in the center console?
Nope, everything works fine. You might have a drive a block before it comes down Fully
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      09-06-2017, 10:03 PM   #12
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Random Shots with Canon 50mm 1.4
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      09-06-2017, 11:27 PM   #13
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really nice G12
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      10-25-2017, 09:02 PM   #14
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Thanks for the detailed DIY! Perhaps a dumb question, but is an alignment required after installation?
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      10-26-2017, 12:38 PM   #15
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anyone in socal that offers this service? I don't think I can do it myself
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      10-27-2017, 07:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nv6425 View Post
Thanks for the detailed DIY! Perhaps a dumb question, but is an alignment required after installation?
No alignment needed. You're not removing any suspension parts that ruins the alignment.
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      11-01-2017, 10:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNoSol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nv6425 View Post
Thanks for the detailed DIY! Perhaps a dumb question, but is an alignment required after installation?
No alignment needed. You're not removing any suspension parts that ruins the alignment.
Thank you!
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      01-07-2018, 04:25 PM   #18
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Is this something I could purchase and take to a shop to install?
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      04-23-2018, 05:21 AM   #19
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Nice job man !!

I own a 6-GT myself (also a white M-sport), which basically has similar suspension setup to the 7 G11/12 (I took the full air suspension option). I plan to have it lowered using links at a local shop (no such a handyman myself ) and get some 21 inchers (bit afraid of the ride quality with 22 inchers, and the 20 inchers just look too small).

So, I have a few questions for the expert on the combination of lowering 3/4" and the 21 inch wheels:
-the lowering obviously does not alter the ride quality. But going from the 20 inch run-flats to the 21 inch regulars, what does that do to ride quality? Same? Or a bit worse?
-I see you have ET30 in the back. In fact, it looks GREAT!! But it seems 30 is quite high, especially with a 295 tire. Do you experience rubbing in the back when bottoming out...?

Thanks a lot for your feedback, and for the great pics on your hot 7-series!
Cheers
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      02-24-2019, 05:49 PM   #20
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Does this affect any of the warranty, CPO or an extended warranty? I wouldn’t think so since the air would adjust to compensate, but anything modding the factory settings like this might be questionable.
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      02-24-2019, 11:26 PM   #21
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what is the benefit of lowering via links versus using springs (such as H&R)?
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      02-25-2019, 04:50 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viral View Post
what is the benefit of lowering via links versus using springs (such as H&R)?
The 750i doesn't use normal springs, it uses air springs that inflate/deflate to adjust the ride height, so there aren't normal springs to replace. Also, if it did use normal springs, the cost of new springs and labor would be considerably more compared to the $200 for these links. The links just change the height of the sensors "default" level, so everything suspension wise stays the exact same.... you're just lowering the default starting point for the air ride height.
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