Vehicle storage?

[whoisthis]

Looking for a car storage for my F30 for 6 months.
Is it necessary that i get an indoor storage with climate control?
The ones i found are all outdoor storage with individual garages.
Only Simply Storage have 10x20 for under $90.

Also, do i need to put some thing in the fuel tank to prevent the gasoline from deteriorate or something like that?
I guess as far as batteries go, i need to disconnect both the front and rear batteries.

Let me know what you guys think

[David70]

Originally Posted by whoisthis

Looking for a car storage for my F30 for 6 months.
Is it necessary that i get an indoor storage with climate control?
The ones i found are all outdoor storage with individual garages.
Only Simply Storage have 10x20 for under $90.

Also, do i need to put some thing in the fuel tank to prevent the gasoline from deteriorate or something like that?
I guess as far as batteries go, i need to disconnect both the front and rear batteries.

Let me know what you guys think

I don't see a reason to need it to be climate controlled for a 6 month storage in Michigan. My garage isn't climate controlled and the car is in there year round (Ohio). Any sealed garage minimizes the temperature swings and your car doesn't care if it gets relatively cold or hot, and the humidity in MI isn't that big a deal.

Fuel stabilizer will help some but I question how much it helps the ethanol part of most fuel, I would prefer to store it with non ethanol gas and stabilizer but haven't been able to find non ethanol around here.

Front and rear batteries? What car has two batteries? Best case would be to either put a Battery Tender on it while in storage or remove the battery and store it with the Tender on it.

[oolas3]

You should use something in the fuel for storage that long. Ethanol in gas attracts water over time. I recommend Star Tron.

[whoisthis]

Originally Posted by David70

I don't see a reason to need it to be climate controlled for a 6 month storage in Michigan. My garage isn't climate controlled and the car is in there year round (Ohio). Any sealed garage minimizes the temperature swings and your car doesn't care if it gets relatively cold or hot, and the humidity in MI isn't that big a deal.

Fuel stabilizer will help some but I question how much it helps the ethanol part of most fuel, I would prefer to store it with non ethanol gas and stabilizer but haven't been able to find non ethanol around here.

Front and rear batteries? What car has two batteries? Best case would be to either put a Battery Tender on it while in storage or remove the battery and store it with the Tender on it.

Doesnt F30 328i have a battery under the hood and one in trunk?
I know there is one in the trunk for sure.

[whoisthis]

Originally Posted by m3m3mr

You should use something in the fuel for storage that long. Ethanol in gas attracts water over time. I recommend Star Tron.

I was actually told that fillin up the gas full with prevent the water to coming in. Would adding the stabilizer still be a better option than full gas tank?

[oolas3]

Originally Posted by whoisthis

I was actually told that fillin up the gas full with prevent the water to coming in. Would adding the stabilizer still be a better option than full gas tank?

That is good advice to fill up but I would do both. Filling up decreases the surface area for water to collect but doesn't eliminate it. Let the stabilizer run through the fuel system for a few minutes before storage.

[dragonsi]

No you won't need climate control. It's not critical you get a fuel stabilizer given your car's newness, and length of storage. Overfill your tires to avoid flatspotting. Either put the car on a trickle charger, or leave it with the negative battery terminal disconnected.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by whoisthis

I was actually told that fillin up the gas full with prevent the water to coming in. Would adding the stabilizer still be a better option than full gas tank?

Gas tanks are sealed, the only vapour that should be in the tank is fuel vapour, it is pretty much impossible for water to get in the tank. It is a good idea to have a full tank, and add fuel stabiliser. Also, make sure the tank is full of fuel that does not contain ethanol, ethanol will gum everything up. For stabiliser, I recommend Sea Foam. Works well (on the can it says stabilises fuel for up to two years) and as a bonus, acts as a fuel injection cleaner as well.

Climate controlled will prevent the brakes from rusting, and to a lesser degree, anything else on the car.

Take this from a Canadian that has stored cars over the winter dozens of times.

[whoisthis]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Gas tanks are sealed, the only vapour that should be in the tank is fuel vapour, it is pretty much impossible for water to get in the tank. It is a good idea to have a full tank, and add fuel stabiliser. Also, make sure the tank is full of fuel that does not contain ethanol, ethanol will gum everything up. For stabiliser, I recommend Sea Foam. Works well (on the can it says stabilises fuel for up to two years) and as a bonus, acts as a fuel injection cleaner as well.

Climate controlled will prevent the brakes from rusting, and to a lesser degree, anything else on the car.

Take this from a Canadian that has stored cars over the winter dozens of times.

i doubt i can find 0% ethanol gas here.
Is there a difference between ethanol neutralizer and fuel stabiliser?
It seems like Sta-Bilhas some known products or Amsoil

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by dragonsi

No you won't need climate control. It's not critical you get a fuel stabilizer given your car's newness, and length of storage. Overfill your tires to avoid flatspotting. Either put the car on a trickle charger, or leave it with the negative battery terminal disconnected.

Don't pay attention to this post because it has bad information:

Yes you should add fuel stabilizer in the correct amount for a 16-gallon tank and run the engine for several minutes to get the treated fuel run through the entire fuel system. Store the car with a full tank of gas.

Do not use a "trickle charger" because it will over charge the battery.

Use a "battery maintainer", which is not a trickle charger (people confuse the terms).

Max pressure in the tires is a good idea.

I also recommend a mothball or two in a glass cup in the interior to keep critters away. Stuff rags in the intake snout and exhaust tips to keep mice from building nests in the exhaust and air box.

[RABAUKE]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Gas tanks are sealed, the only vapour that should be in the tank is fuel vapour, it is pretty much impossible for water to get in the tank. It is a good idea to have a full tank, and add fuel stabiliser. Also, make sure the tank is full of fuel that does not contain ethanol, ethanol will gum everything up. For stabiliser, I recommend Sea Foam. Works well (on the can it says stabilises fuel for up to two years) and as a bonus, acts as a fuel injection cleaner as well.

Climate controlled will prevent the brakes from rusting, and to a lesser degree, anything else on the car.

Take this from a Canadian that has stored cars over the winter dozens of times.

And make sure you put the stablizer in before you fill the tank so it's well mixed in and run the car for a while so the fuel inside the fuel line and injectors is treated as well.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by whoisthis

I was actually told that fillin up the gas full with prevent the water to coming in. Would adding the stabilizer still be a better option than full gas tank?

The reason to fill the fuel tank full is to minimize the the free air space in the tank. Reducing the air space minimizes the amount of water vapor that is in the air in the tank that comes out of the air and forms water though condensation. Condensation occurs from the changing temperature of the fuel in the tank. This really isn't an issue since most gasoline has ethanol (alcohol) in it, which absorbs any water in the fuel.

[whoisthis]

Thanks for the tips guys. I will be putting in Sta-Bil product as well as de-moisturizer inside the car with windows cracked open.

Off topic: is it ok to storage butane gas and butane lighter in the storage for months? (not sure how the temp. would be in the storage)

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by whoisthis

Thanks for the tips guys. I will be putting in Sta-Bil product as well as de-moisturizer inside the car with windows cracked open.

Off topic: is it ok to storage butane gas and butane lighter in the storage for months? (not sure how the temp. would be in the storage)

Keep the windows closed. The interior has vents to allow it to "breathe"

[whoisthis]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Keep the windows closed. The interior has vents to allow it to "breathe"

Oh ok. I just thought that closing the window would put some stress against the rubber trim where it seals the window

[1MOREMOD]

Here you go. I use e0 in my track car and this is how I find it.
http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=MI

[whoisthis]

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

Here you go. I use e0 in my track car and this is how I find it.
http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=MI

that's interesting.. few gas stations i thought are crappy actually carry E0..
even unbranded company?
I should make a printout of this

[Zing]

I plan to store my M4 for the winter. And by 'store', I basically mean not drive it from about November/December through March/April so I find this thread very helpful and plan to take a lot of the advice given.

One thing I'm concerned about and haven't seen mentioned is what surface the tires should and shouldn't touch.

My garage floor is bare concrete. I seem to remember being told once that bare concrete for extended winter periods is a no-no and therefore you should place _______ under each tire. Anyone care to fill in the blank?

I believe cardboard is also a no-no but I seem to remember carpet being OK. I also seem to remember rubber not being a good choice.

[whoisthis]

Originally Posted by Zing

I plan to store my M4 for the winter. And by 'store', I basically mean not drive it from about November/December through March/April so I find this thread very helpful and plan to take a lot of the advice given.

One thing I'm concerned about and haven't seen mentioned is what surface the tires should and shouldn't touch.

My garage floor is bare concrete. I seem to remember being told once that bare concrete for extended winter periods is a no-no and therefore you should place _______ under each tire. Anyone care to fill in the blank?

I believe cardboard is also a no-no but I seem to remember carpet being OK. I also seem to remember rubber not being a good choice.

Oh that would be nice to know as well.

Also, i just found out that if you are financing your vehicle, then you must keep your insurance even when it is in the storage.
I have Farmers insurance. I gotta figure out a way to pay less than $50 a month or none while it's being stored.

[Ali Shiralian]

Originally Posted by Zing

I plan to store my M4 for the winter. And by 'store', I basically mean not drive it from about November/December through March/April so I find this thread very helpful and plan to take a lot of the advice given.

One thing I'm concerned about and haven't seen mentioned is what surface the tires should and shouldn't touch.

My garage floor is bare concrete. I seem to remember being told once that bare concrete for extended winter periods is a no-no and therefore you should place _______ under each tire. Anyone care to fill in the blank?

I believe cardboard is also a no-no but I seem to remember carpet being OK. I also seem to remember rubber not being a good choice.

I use PVC mats under all my cars in the garage both in winter and summer. You can get those at Home Depot , different sizes. They protect the cars underneath from the moisture that will penetrate through the concrete and look very nice too. +1 to the battery tender and fuel stableizer also put more airthan expected PSI in the tire and say goodbye to your car for winter...

[David70]

Unless you are covering the whole (or at least most of) the garage with a material that stops moist air I can't see small mats under the tires changing how much the humidity is in the air and reaching your car.

Basically the same as standing on a plastic mat and hoping you feel better because of the reduced humidity that is getting to you.

[Ali Shiralian]

Humidity penetrates through the concrete and hit underneath the car where rust usually starts. I've heard people use roofing tar paper to do the same. My Miata is a 90 with no spec of rust due to this practice. I also happen to think PVC mats look awesome in the garage. Btw my garage is heated...