Which FUSE for V1 radar???

[7erMOB]

I tried to install my V1 the other day with a fuse tap and it didn't work.

Radar is functioning fine with cigarette adapter, everything works perfectly.

I use the accessory fuse 20amps (#54) if I remembered correctly. This is the big fuse tab not the small 5 amps fuse tab. The 20amps and 5amps fuse were then place in the fuse tab.

Rotated a couple of time of course, nothing came up either.

Nothing came up from the radar when turned on V1, also nothing came up for error code either

Checked other E9X forums, they have different fuse structure.

Please help! Which fuse are you guys using????

[Gassy]

Having the same problem here in my 2011 750. However, I tried to direct wire (not fuse tap) into several of the fuses behind the glove box using the metal screw on the fuse box as a ground. After trying every possible combination of live vs. ground for the 4 wires in the V1 power cord, and trying this on 3 separate fuses, I have given up. I now have the flat power wire routed across my dash, down through the glove box and tucked into the center console carpet and routed to the accessory cig lighter in the back. This sucks. I cannot figure why direct wiring into a fuse won't work...

[ello888]

have you checked your ground? are you sure you are grounding it? do you have a multi-meter to check if the tap is live when the car is powered on?

The v1 only require a 2 amp fuse. There is no need to use any fuse more than 2 amp as 2 amp is the fuse used in the cigg connector. Also, staying with 2 amps, it will fried much quicker before anything wrong happens to your fuse box. I would advise 2 amps because:

a) tapping into an existing fuse and hance increasing the load already. 2 amp is a very small increase, and

b) the rated maximum fuse loading of these taps are 10amps I believe.

If you use a 2 amp fuse, it will be low enough to protect your connection into the car fuse box incase something short circuit....

As for which fuse location to use, can you scan your fuse card and PDF it for me? I didn't take a picture when I did mine but if you send me your fuse card, I can tell you which one. I found only a few of them will turn on when the car is STARTED and off when the car is OFF so you would want to tap into those slots.

Also, FYI, I used mini-taps and mini-fuse as the slot I found was minifuse.

[Gassy]

I got fed up with trying to find a suitable ground screw and proper fuse, so after hunting around I located a cigarette-lighter type power outlet way up under the passenger footwell and routed the V1 power cord along the top of the roof liner, down the A pillar and behind the door trim, and then up along the footwell. Nothing is visible except 3" of flat black cord from the V1 going straight back to the edge of the windshield. Ten minute job...

[7erMOB]

Sorry for the late reply, totally forgot I post this msg until I recheck of what I wrote.

Ello888:
Thanks for your good explanation. I don't have the card with me but I have checked other forums and I know which "logo" is for the accessories. For the 7er that specific fuse is way on top of the fuse box in the passenger footwell.

I don't want to unlock all the screws as I did for the bottom and felt like the whole thing is coming down lol. And yes small fuse tap are the ones to use.

Gassy:
I did what you did with the back seat cig-adapter and tug it in under the center console on driver side. Using a self made telephone wire (4 channels, same as the one provided by V1 itself. NOTE: some telephone wires only uses 2 channel)

This does not turn off when the car shuts off and after locking. Stays on forever which sucks! Experimented overnight (7hrs) as well. Still on when return.