Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK
You can locate vacuum leaks by spraying some brake cleaner localized on rubber parts. Where there is a leak, the brake cleaner is sucked inside and burned, raising the RPM slightly.
Obviously be careful with this method and don't do this with a hot engine and hot exaust and spray in the direction of the hot exhaust as brake cleaner is obviously very flammable....
Another way is by injecting smoke into the inlet system by a specialized smoke machine (inlet has to be capped off).
Where the smoke comes out, there is your leak. However this requires that special smoke machine, which is a fairly expensive tool.
The rubber blind caps on the inlet manifold that can perish I was talking about are #15 and #17 in the link below
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E4...nifold_system/
The O ring of the air inlet temperature sensor can potentially also leak, however this is less common. I think the lower intake boot is the usual culprit. A tear there causes a significant size of a leak |
Update:
I've now changed the CCV parts and also the two parts on the intake boot (yes they both had tears). I also cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. Changed Oil, Oilfilter, Airfilter, (Already changed the sparkplugs) and also added some fuel additive to remove any water in the gas.
The car now starts and runs but I can tell its not running smooth on idle, I cleaned the engine codes and the ones I get now are the following:
P0171, P0174, P1083, P1347 and P0056..
I'm guessing I've got a leak somewhere else. I've yet to check #15 and #17 on the inlet manifold.
The oring on the dipstick tube was toast so I've got the get a new one for that. I'll get one for the intake sensor to, might just as well buy a kit of orings.
Also I found this cable behind the DISA that was not connected to anything and I could not find where to connect it? Does anyone know what it is and where it should go? (Pics comming soon)