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05-04-2022, 04:06 AM | #1 |
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BAD TRANS or VALVE BODY?? Gotta make a decision!!
Bought a 2010 750Li with 131k miles knowing it has a bad transmission. First car wouldn't even go into gear. No fluid. I had mechanic change all the "mechatronics sleeves and refill with fresh fluid. Car now drives but it kicks you in the butt(on acceleration and deceleration) after a few shifts and goes into limp mode. My question is do I need a transmission or can I get away with just the valve body being rebuilt? I found a transmission I can pick up, but I have to make a decision while it's still available. Posting the Codes below. Bite the bullet on a Used Trans or go the cheaper route and re-do the valve body? Your input and suggestions are appreciated.
CF1701 Message (All) For (EGS_EL,A-CAN, FA-CAN) From (GWS, A-CAN, FA-CAN) is missing 1DB301 EGS, Signal Monitoring (Gear Information) Invalid Signal Content CF0400 Total malfunction of the CAN-Communication by line interruption 400441 Ratio Monitoring Clutch E implausible 400331 Clutch Monitoring 3-4 implausible 401011 Collision backup measures with Equal Priority 213901 Consumer Readuction: Active |
09-01-2022, 10:55 PM | #2 |
Sporty Shorty
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Implausible codes tell me that the clutches are burnt.
You're needing a new trans. Clutches are burnt and that is why you are getting that kick in the butt. The TCU is commanding as much pressure as possible to get you in motion. Apologies for being the bearer of bad news (edit) when installing the new or used transmission RESET ADAPTATIONS! Or else it will do its best to kill itself within the first week of driving until it self learns. Use ONLY a genuine ZF filter. You can use Mercon SP fluid for a large cost saving. Do Not use any old ATF. I am being a bit rash in my warnings, but worst case you will burn out the new transmission. Best and admittedly most likely case, it'll drive like @*&# for a week. Last edited by 7'er-addict; 12-01-2022 at 11:36 PM.. |
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01-18-2023, 08:04 PM | #4 | |
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got identical issues "fixed"
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