ATF-3+ transmission fluid equivalent?

[750iClown]

Does anyone know if we can purchase a lower cost tranny fluid than this BMW ATF-3+ fluid they basically try and restrict us to?

[Raimo5]

Yes, you can go for ZF LifeGuard 8 fluid as this is the OE stuff. Get the service kit with oil pan-filter combo and 7 liters of fluid.

[750iClown]

Originally Posted by Raimo5

Yes, you can go for ZF LifeGuard 8 fluid as this is the OE stuff. Get the service kit with oil pan-filter combo and 7 liters of fluid.

Thanks so much. Do you know if there's a procedure for a person without any flushing equipment to get all the fluid out of the torque converter as well as whats drained by gravity?

[Raimo5]

Originally Posted by 750iClown

Thanks so much. Do you know if there's a procedure for a person without any flushing equipment to get all the fluid out of the torque converter as well as whats drained by gravity?

Undoing the valve body slightly will allow it to drain about a liter and a half extra. With that out, you have already drained 7 liters that will come in a kit. Another option is to fill it without draining valve body, which will leave you with about liter and a half of new fluid left over. You can then run the car for a bit, let the fluid mix and then drain the amount of fluid you have left over from initial filling. Then top it up with what fresh fluid you have and you are good to go. Of course do necessary oil leveling procedures, as per service manual.

There is no need to get everything out, i.e. torque converter and heat exchangers. It's completely okay if some is left in, and extra work involved will give negligible to no difference.

[750iClown]

Originally Posted by Raimo5

Undoing the valve body slightly will allow it to drain about a liter and a half extra. With that out, you have already drained 7 liters that will come in a kit. Another option is to fill it without draining valve body, which will leave you with about liter and a half of new fluid left over. You can then run the car for a bit, let the fluid mix and then drain the amount of fluid you have left over from initial filling. Then top it up with what fresh fluid you have and you are good to go. Of course do necessary oil leveling procedures, as per service manual.

There is no need to get everything out, i.e. torque converter and heat exchangers. It's completely okay if some is left in, and extra work involved will give negligible to no difference.

I have to get as much fluid out as I can because of water possibly getting in there. So far so good, runs without issues but I want piece of mind by draining as much as possible. I am new to the BMW world as well as tranny world so your comment about the "valve body" needs some extra looking into by me.

[Raimo5]

Why do you think that there is water getting in there and from where is it getting in from? Small amounts of clean water wont do harm as it is boiled off during operation.

By undoing the valve body, I mean slightly undoing the bolts so that you can drop it few millimeters while it is still held up by the bolts. This will let it drain the top side via the gap made by loosening the bolts a little.

[750iClown]

Originally Posted by Raimo5

Why do you think that there is water getting in there and from where is it getting in from? Small amounts of clean water wont do harm as it is boiled off during operation.

By undoing the valve body, I mean slightly undoing the bolts so that you can drop it few millimeters while it is still held up by the bolts. This will let it drain the top side via the gap made by loosening the bolts a little.

The vehicle went into somewhat deep water. I want to make sure none got in there. Yes it's a closed system but I still want to empty as much as possible. I'm trying to find my oil pan/filter set but it's tough for these 2022 750i xDrive models!

[Raimo5]

In that case, the transmission and everything that holds transmission fluid must come off the car so it can be drained properly. Other possibility is dynamic transmission flush, but I dont recommend it, as their "flush fluids" are cheap base stock and full of nasty detergents.

I really wouldn't bother and have faith in ZF's excellent engineering. Especially if there are no complaints with the transmission. They put these transmissions to some heavy offroad vehicles.

[750iClown]

Originally Posted by Raimo5

In that case, the transmission and everything that holds transmission fluid must come off the car so it can be drained properly. Other possibility is dynamic transmission flush, but I dont recommend it, as their "flush fluids" are cheap base stock and full of nasty detergents.

I really wouldn't bother and have faith in ZF's excellent engineering. Especially if there are no complaints with the transmission. They put these transmissions to some heavy offroad vehicles.

The transmission is fine no need for anything w it. The car is throwing a bank1 P0171 code so I want to replace the O2 sensor that could be causing that. Do you know where that is? Is it in the engine area on the exhaust manifold on that side, or is it below the car by the cat itself? Are there diagrams on this site for my 2022 750i?

[Raimo5]

Regulating O2 sensors are mounted in the front section of catalytic converter. These can be accessed from engine bay. Part #1 on this chart.

P0171 is bank one lean code. Has intake been checked to make sure there are no actual leaks?

[750iClown]

Originally Posted by Raimo5

Regulating O2 sensors are mounted in the front section of catalytic converter. These can be accessed from engine bay. Part #1 on this chart.

P0171 is bank one lean code. Has intake been checked to make sure there are no actual leaks?

The intake has not been checked yet. I have to start digging into that. I'm not going to replace the O2 sensor or blindly dump money like that until I verify that there aren't leaks. Do you recommend a technique to do this? I don't have a smoke machine but i would buy one. Do I just visually inspect all air hoses, start the engine, listen for escaping air sounds? It is tough to find specific diagrams for my specific engine.

[750iClown]

Originally Posted by Raimo5

Regulating O2 sensors are mounted in the front section of catalytic converter. These can be accessed from engine bay. Part #1 on this chart.

P0171 is bank one lean code. Has intake been checked to make sure there are no actual leaks?

Do you know if bank 1 is driver's side cylinders?

[Raimo5]

Originally Posted by 750iClown

The intake has not been checked yet. I have to start digging into that. I'm not going to replace the O2 sensor or blindly dump money like that until I verify that there aren't leaks. Do you recommend a technique to do this? I don't have a smoke machine but i would buy one. Do I just visually inspect all air hoses, start the engine, listen for escaping air sounds? It is tough to find specific diagrams for my specific engine.

Smoke machine is a godsend, let me tell you. What used to be hours on end of parts inspection and dumb firing the parts cannon, can now be solved within 5 minutes. If you like working on cars, or you work on more than your own, then I would recommend one.

I would first approach it with electronic diagnosis system, because that does not require disassembly of anything and can rule out sensor and probe issues if you can interpret the data correctly. Usually, there will be disagreements between MAF, MAP, O2, adaptations if one or more of those are faulty.

If all checks out, then I would start by inspecting intake parts. If memory serves correct, then N63 has completely separate intake tracts for both banks. That can give a good reference how parts should look and what noise they should make under operation. In your case, bank 2 is good. So if you listen to and visually check parts, make sure that everything on bank 1 intake run works as on bank 2. If you find discrepancies, audible air leaks, then that would help you pinpoint the issue. Again, 1000x easier with smoke machine.

I can help you out with repair manuals if you need them.

Originally Posted by 750iClown

Do you know if bank 1 is driver's side cylinders?

It would be the passenger side on left hand drive vehicles. If you stand in front of the car, looking at an engine, then cylinders would go as 1-4 (one being the closest) on your left hand and 5-8 on your right hand.

EDIT: Lets move this conversation over to another thread that you have already opened.