New to BMW. Should I be paying MSRP for a 2024 i7 M70?

[i7newbie2024]

Has anyone been able to get a deal for 2024 bmw i7 M70? Im new to BMW. Coming from Tesla (where the price is the price) and Mercedes EQS (Where there were a ton of incentives last year and a lot of dealers wanted to get rid of the cars at deep discounts)

Im wondering how things are over at BMW. The MSRP of the 2024 i7 M70 build I want is about 175K.

Could those of you who have a 2024 or 2023 i7 M70 just state below:

1. your city
2. how much you paid (whether you paid over msrp, under or at msrp)

[av0789]

1. I’m in NJ
2. My build was 181k and I received 10 percent off plus incentives. I recommend sending out emails to multiple dealers in the area. Most were difficult and said something along the lines not being able to give a discount on the flagship trim but that is definitely not true!

[DroMike]

I don't believe it matters which G70 you are seeking, BMW will give you a fair discount below the MSRP if you ask. Obviously if you don't, they're more than happy to have you pay the full price suggested by the manufacturer. Here in the SF Bay Area last month I was extremely satisfied with the 7% discount I, uh, suggested. Believe it or not, that is below invoice (what the dealer paid for the car).

Why can or would they do this? Three reasons (maybe others would like to know this if you already do):

(1) BMW may have a special promotion to rid the lot of slower-moving cars, paying the dealer several thousand post-sale dollars for each sold;

(2) There is almost certainly a "holdback." A holdback is the OEM's standard built-in reward to the dealer on top of the selling price for simply removing one of their vehicles from the dealer's inventory. This is quite common; and lastly,

(3) The dealership makes plenty of extra money with financing. You can even pay cash for your car (as I did) - it doesn't matter. The majority of people lease or finance expensive vehicles so the dealership will make tons on interest from those deals, and therefore don't mind imparting a good discount on those or elsewhere now and then.

Av079's 10% off above was a STELLAR deal (congrats)!! I'm sure they agreed to it mainly because BMW doesn't sell many M70s a day, maybe not even per month so was probably the benefactor of all three of the above criteria. More power to him! I was happy enough with my 7% off (plus my $5,000 military incentive from BMW that doesn't interfere with the dealer's profit). When a dealer or two balked at my price I knew I'd pushed them enough for my car at that point in time -- you kind of have to "feel" them out to see how far you can go. That brings me to reiterate the prescient point made by av079: Send out a number of emails to dealers -- the more the better -- letting the dealership know you're a serious buyer and ask for the discount you want to receive. Play one off against another (to a certain degree): "I DO like your price but Smith BMW in Anytown said they've give me 7%. If you can do 8% you've got a deal." Use your imagination. The bottom line is that you can get as much MSRP as you have the temerity to ask for and the dealership is willing to give up to deny another dealership from making the deal and a profit. Build your car to your specifications and let the dealership know how much YOU want to pay for it.

Have fun and most of all, enjoy your new car (if and when you get it)!!

(As an aside, 2024 is the inaugural year of the M70, there are no 2023s.)

[i7newbie2024]

Originally Posted by av0789

1. I’m in NJ
2. My build was 181k and I received 10 percent off plus incentives. I recommend sending out emails to multiple dealers in the area. Most were difficult and said something along the lines not being able to give a discount on the flagship trim but that is definitely not true!

wow sounds like a great deal. so you got almost 20K off right?
how long was the car you bought sitting on the lot unsold?

also im very curious, if you are open to sharing what was your negotiation strategy to get the 10%? and what incentives did they agree to?

[i7newbie2024]

Originally Posted by DroMike

I don't believe it matters which G70 you are seeking, BMW will give you a fair discount below the MSRP if you ask. Obviously if you don't, they're more than happy to have you pay the full price suggested by the manufacturer. Here in the SF Bay Area last month I was extremely satisfied with the 7% discount I, uh, suggested. Believe it or not, that is below invoice (what the dealer paid for the car).

Why can or would they do this? Three reasons (maybe others would like to know this if you already do):

(1) BMW may have a special promotion to rid the lot of slower-moving cars, paying the dealer several thousand post-sale dollars for each sold;

(2) There is almost certainly a "holdback." A holdback is the OEM's standard built-in reward to the dealer on top of the selling price for simply removing one of their vehicles from the dealer's inventory. This is quite common; and lastly,

(3) The dealership makes plenty of extra money with financing. You can even pay cash for your car (as I did) - it doesn't matter. The majority of people lease or finance expensive vehicles so the dealership will make tons on interest from those deals, and therefore don't mind imparting a good discount on those or elsewhere now and then.

Av079's 10% off above was a STELLAR deal (congrats)!! I'm sure they agreed to it mainly because BMW doesn't sell many M70s a day, maybe not even per month so was probably the benefactor of all three of the above criteria. More power to him! I was happy enough with my 7% off (plus my $5,000 military incentive from BMW that doesn't interfere with the dealer's profit). When a dealer or two balked at my price I knew I'd pushed them enough for my car at that point in time -- you kind of have to "feel" them out to see how far you can go. That brings me to reiterate the prescient point made by av079: Send out a number of emails to dealers -- the more the better -- letting the dealership know you're a serious buyer and ask for the discount you want to receive. Play one off against another (to a certain degree): "I DO like your price but Smith BMW in Anytown said they've give me 7%. If you can do 8% you've got a deal." Use your imagination. The bottom line is that you can get as much MSRP as you have the temerity to ask for and the dealership is willing to give up to deny another dealership from making the deal and a profit. Build your car to your specifications and let the dealership know how much YOU want to pay for it.

Have fun and most of all, enjoy your new car (if and when you get it)!!

(As an aside, 2024 is the inaugural year of the M70, there are no 2023s.)

thanks for the note about 2024!and so much insight

are these cars popular in SF? how long was the car you bought sitting on the lot unsold?

what i noticed with car salesman is that you can ask for xyz but they almost always say no to your request but will try and give you something in the middle. however i feel that if i know a ballpark of deals that other people are getting then it kind of lets me know what is actually possible!

if you got 7% and av079 got 10% then I feel confident to ask for something in this range and really pushing for it.

another follow up question i have for you is since the dealership makes money on financing (and since you paid cash) do u think u could have gotten a better deal had you paid cash? or did you sign up for financing and then just pay off the whole amount right away?

[dimsler]

1: ON
2: %29 after all the rebates, extras, and other incentives, on a 2023 close out.

[DroMike]

Originally Posted by i7newbie2024

are these cars popular in SF? how long was the car you bought sitting on the lot unsold?

another follow up question i have for you is since the dealership makes money on financing (and since you paid cash) do u think u could have gotten a better deal had you paid cash? or did you sign up for financing and then just pay off the whole amount right away?

I'm glad to have helped. In answer your specific questions reprinted above:

(1) I don't know whether or not the G70s are more or less popular here in the SFBA than anywhere else, but I'd have to think that California as a whole outsells any other state in EVs 10 to 1.

(2) My car was not sitting on any lot. As probably half here on this website do, I also factory-ordered my vehicle. You might want to do that similarly. You can obtain the exact vehicle you want precisely to your specifications. It takes upwards of 6-8 weeks for you to receive it, a short wait really. However, this could also be why my discount only stretched to 7%. Obviously, a dealership is more keen on removing a vehicle taking up their rented space and slots for other cars on their lots than one that comes in fresh from Germany. The faster they move their cars off their lots the more profit they make. However, you can still obtain a very health discount -- as I've done -- from a factory order.

(3) As I mentioned in my post above, I paid cash. Believe it or not you are likely NOT to get as good a deal if you pay cash as opposed to financing. Why? Because they make more money on someone making monthly payments with INTEREST so are willing to provide a larger discount if they think they're going to make back the money on the back end (the interest) as opposed to a one-and-done customer paying cash all at once. Understandable, right? So with what strategy do you counter this with? Simple: DON'T TELL THEM YOU ARE PAYING CASH! When they ask how you'll be paying (it WILL be one of the first thing of their mouths) either ignore the question and change the subject by asking them something about the car. If you are pushed for an answer, simply tell them you'll "probably finance it." That will be music to their ears and they'll run with it assuming you WILL be financing it. You've then just earned yourself another $1,000-$3,000 off that they think they'll be collecting in monthly payment interest.

P.S. Re the "negotiations," the only time I physically saw my dealer or visited his lot was when I picked up my car. You can "negotiate" via email SOLELY. When you come to a deal they'll send you a VIR (showing all options you've selected or that will be included with the car) and probably some statement of pricing that they might ask you to sign and email back. You never have to leave your computer at home. I didn't. It was all a very easy and civilized stress-free process.

Good luck and have fun!

[todao]

DroMike
He provides some excellent tips on negotiating the best card deal.

You highlighted a technique I use and it works for buying or leasing and that is working with multiple dealers and playing one dealer against the other dealers. You get your best price from one dealer, then go to the next dealer and ask him to beat it, then go to the next dealer and do the same and go to the Next dealer and do the same and then go back to the first dealer and ask him to beat the best deal you have. And so what…

Sooner or later you whittle them down and they won’t go lower and then you know you have the best deal.

[Taway]

Originally Posted by DroMike

I'm glad to have helped. In answer your specific questions reprinted above:

(1) I don't know whether or not the G70s are more or less popular here in the SFBA than anywhere else, but I'd have to think that California as a whole outsells any other state in EVs 10 to 1.

(2) My car was not sitting on any lot. As probably half here on this website do, I also factory-ordered my vehicle. You might want to do that similarly. You can obtain the exact vehicle you want precisely to your specifications. It takes upwards of 6-8 weeks for you to receive it, a short wait really. However, this could also be why my discount only stretched to 7%. Obviously, a dealership is more keen on removing a vehicle taking up their rented space and slots for other cars on their lots than one that comes in fresh from Germany. The faster they move their cars off their lots the more profit they make. However, you can still obtain a very health discount -- as I've done -- from a factory order.

(3) As I mentioned in my post above, I paid cash. Believe it or not you are likely NOT to get as good a deal if you pay cash as opposed to financing. Why? Because they make more money on someone making monthly payments with INTEREST so are willing to provide a larger discount if they think they're going to make back the money on the back end (the interest) as opposed to a one-and-done customer paying cash all at once. Understandable, right? So with what strategy do you counter this with? Simple: DON'T TELL THEM YOU ARE PAYING CASH! When they ask how you'll be paying (it WILL be one of the first thing of their mouths) either ignore the question and change the subject by asking them something about the car. If you are pushed for an answer, simply tell them you'll "probably finance it." That will be music to their ears and they'll run with it assuming you WILL be financing it. You've then just earned yourself another $1,000-$3,000 off that they think they'll be collecting in monthly payment interest.

P.S. Re the "negotiations," the only time I physically saw my dealer or visited his lot was when I picked up my car. You can "negotiate" via email SOLELY. When you come to a deal they'll send you a VIR (showing all options you've selected or that will be included with the car) and probably some statement of pricing that they might ask you to sign and email back. You never have to leave your computer at home. I didn't. It was all a very easy and civilized stress-free process.

Good luck and have fun!

Hi, who do you think is the right person to message at the dealership in regards to getting a discount or a good deal on the car.

[DroMike]

Originally Posted by Taway

Hi, who do you think is the right person to message at the dealership in regards to getting a discount or a good deal on the car.

I think it little matters -- but somebody correct me if you disagree -- just correspond with the person who answers your email. They're all there to sell you a car and a manager will be the one who approves what you ask for. No need to overthink things. Happy New Year by the way!

[Laguna Beach]

Unfortunately you have missed an all important window. End of the year quota pressure for the sales teams. End of quarter would be your next window of opportunity. If you can wait 6 months even better as some used ones will pop up but the 70 version is too new and too rare to get any huge deals on I’m afraid. Regular i7 deals are abundant and especially for 23’s cause dealers want them off theirs lots before Jan 1st.
Are you sure you need a 70? Huge difference in price especially without much discount and not a huge gap between the two cars. Yes it’s faster but this car is 6000 pounds. It’s not like you’re going to be canyon carving or tracking this and I just don’t see the 50k delta being worth it. Unless you want to say you have the Mac daddy and price doesn’t matter. But it seems it does for you. Regular i7 60 is plenty fast and great deals to be had. Just my 2 cents.

[DroMike]

LagunaBeach makes a great point. End-of-year (esp. December) inventory-clearing to move cars out and off their lots is traditionally a dealership's biggest car-selling window and they'd be inclined to provide a large discount to do so. That has now come and gone. Of course this is of little consequence if you are ordering from the factory.

He or she also raises an interesting scenario for you to consider should you merely desire the luxury of an electric G70 but you don't have endless deep pockets (I certainly don't), or should you desire to save money: Merely purchase a more inexpensive model and you'll save tens of thousands of dollars! There are three i7s: M70, xDrive60 and eDrive50. Except for the differences in power, range, and price, they are architecturally EXACTLY the same car and can be configured more or less identically. The main exception is that the eDrive50 is rear-wheel drive as opposed to all-wheel drive for the other two. However, since you live in SoCal, you won't need or miss any extra traction in slippery or snowy conditions AWD offers, so the time-proven RWD should be completely sufficient. Here then are the published differences and 2024 MSRPs:

[Remember, that while HP will give you the ability to reach and maintain high speeds, torque is the amount of "push you back in your seat" force or power you get when you initially step on the gas, er, I mean, pedal.]

CAR................HP........Torque.....Range..... .......MSRP

eDrive50........449.......549.........321 miles.......$105,700
xDrive60........536.......549.........317 miles........$124,200
M70................650.......749.........291 miles........$168,500

As LB said, unless you're going to be canyon carving or taking the car to the track, the only other reason to get the M70 is because money is no object or you just want the bragging rights -- superficial advantages all. Otherwise, either the eDrive50 or xDrive60 will give you all the power you or anybody needs for everyday driving with SUBSTANTIAL $$$ savings. I went with the eDrive50 because 449HP is plenty of top end (half again more HP than what I had with my 300HP Chrysler!), the pulling-power torque is the same as the xDrive60, and the range was higher and most important to me with an EV. Lastly and of course, the PRICES obviously show your where you may find your best value for your hard-earned money..... Most folks here have the xDrive60 mainly because before the 2024 model year, that was the only i7 available for purchase. Still, test drive them all to see what is best for YOU and YOUR situation. I envy your position (although if truth be told, I envy ME more for having just purchased an i7 and for actually owing and driving one)! haha

[i7newbie2024]

Originally Posted by DroMike

(3) As I mentioned in my post above, I paid cash. Believe it or not you are likely NOT to get as good a deal if you pay cash as opposed to financing. Why? Because they make more money on someone making monthly payments with INTEREST so are willing to provide a larger discount if they think they're going to make back the money on the back end (the interest) as opposed to a one-and-done customer paying cash all at once. Understandable, right? So with what strategy do you counter this with? Simple: DON'T TELL THEM YOU ARE PAYING CASH! When they ask how you'll be paying (it WILL be one of the first thing of their mouths) either ignore the question and change the subject by asking them something about the car. If you are pushed for an answer, simply tell them you'll "probably finance it." That will be music to their ears and they'll run with it assuming you WILL be financing it. You've then just earned yourself another $1,000-$3,000 off that they think they'll be collecting in monthly payment interest.
)

So then after they give you their best numbers on the car with some crazy interest rate thinking you will be financing it ….what happens when you go to sign all the paperwork with the financing guy, and he finds out that you are actually paying cash for it?

[i7newbie2024]

Originally Posted by DroMike

LagunaBeach makes a great point. End-of-year (esp. December) inventory-clearing to move cars out and off their lots is traditionally a dealership's biggest car-selling window and they'd be inclined to provide a large discount to do so. That has now come and gone. Of course this is of little consequence if you are ordering from the factory.

He or she also raises an interesting scenario for you to consider should you merely desire the luxury of an electric G70 but you don't have endless deep pockets (I certainly don't), or should you desire to save money: Merely purchase a more inexpensive model and you'll save tens of thousands of dollars! There are three i7s: M70, xDrive60 and eDrive50. Except for the differences in power, range, and price, they are architecturally EXACTLY the same car and can be configured more or less identically. The main exception is that the eDrive50 is rear-wheel drive as opposed to all-wheel drive for the other two. However, since you live in SoCal, you won't need or miss any extra traction in slippery or snowy conditions AWD offers, so the time-proven RWD should be completely sufficient. Here then are the published differences and 2024 MSRPs:

[Remember, that while HP will give you the ability to reach and maintain high speeds, torque is the amount of "push you back in your seat" force or power you get when you initially step on the gas, er, I mean, pedal.]

CAR................HP........Torque.....Range..... .......MSRP

eDrive50........449.......549.........321 miles.......$105,700
xDrive60........536.......549.........317 miles........$124,200
M70................650.......749.........291 miles........$168,500

As LB said, unless you're going to be canyon carving or taking the car to the track, the only other reason to get the M70 is because money is no object or you just want the bragging rights -- superficial advantages all. Otherwise, either the eDrive50 or xDrive60 will give you all the power you or anybody needs for everyday driving with SUBSTANTIAL $$$ savings. I went with the eDrive50 because 449HP is plenty of top end (half again more HP than what I had with my 300HP Chrysler!), the pulling-power torque is the same as the xDrive60, and the range was higher and most important to me with an EV. Lastly and of course, the PRICES obviously show your where you may find your best value for your hard-earned money..... Most folks here have the xDrive60 mainly because before the 2024 model year, that was the only i7 available for purchase. Still, test drive them all to see what is best for YOU and YOUR situation. I envy your position (although if truth be told, I envy ME more for having just purchased an i7 and for actually owing and driving one)! haha

with the amg g63 and regular g550 mercedes gwagons there are some cosmetic differences. similar to most of mercedes amg vs non amg cars

for bmw the edrive50 , xdrive60 and m70 all look the same?

what i care most about is the look. and also the entertainment system in the back.

given the above i might try to custom order the edrive50 in frozen grey

did you get all the discounts and negotiations out of the way during the initial order? with mercedes they wont lock in the price for custom order gwagon until its sitting on the lot

[i7newbie2024]

Originally Posted by dimsler

1: ON
2: %29 after all the rebates, extras, and other incentives, on a 2023 close out.

wow 29%

“23 close out” meaning u bought a 2024 at the end of calendar year last december?

[DroMike]

Originally Posted by i7newbie2024

for bmw the edrive50 , xdrive60 and m70 all look the same?

what i care most about is the look. and also the entertainment system in the back.

given the above i might try to custom order the edrive50 in frozen grey

did you get all the discounts and negotiations out of the way during the initial order? with mercedes they wont lock in the price for custom order gwagon until its sitting on the lot

(1) Yes, all the i7s look EXACTLY the same. (2) As for the "entertainment system in the back," the BEST one you can get for any G70 (ICE or EVs) is the Bowers & Wilkens "Diamond" system. It has something like 1,600 watts with 36 speakers (I might be off very slightly on those numbers). It's a $4,800 option on ALL three i7s. I have it in my eDrive50 and it's wonderful. (3) make sure you LOOK at an(y) i7 in frozen grey in PERSON and IN DAYLIGHT before you buy it. Another color on the lot might catch your eye and fancy more. Keen an open mind. (4) Yes, all my discounts and negotiations were provided to me first (via email) before I went to the dealership and their finance office to pay for and pick up the car (i.e., I only made that one physical visit to the dealership). How can this be done? Because they can send you all documents including the Vehicle Identification Report (VIR) showing your car and all your options, AND the separate pricing invoice which they'll probably have you sign with your agreed-upon discounts you negotiated. By "negotiated" I mean the price you offered (usually in discount form such as "7% off MSRP," "8% off MSRP," etc. -- you normally won't say "I'll give your $7,000 less than MSRP," you'll tell them you want a certain PERCENTAGE in whole or half amounts such as 8% or 8.5% off).

Originally Posted by i7newbie2024

So then after they give you their best numbers on the car with some crazy interest rate thinking you will be financing it ….what happens when you go to sign all the paperwork with the financing guy, and he finds out that you are actually paying cash for it?

Remember, at the most, you've only told them you would probably finance it. That isn't a commitment of any kind.

After you've settle on your car and the options (you'll always get a VIR if you are factory ordering), your first job is if for you to come to an agreement with you and the car salesman or manager via email or in his or her office, on the selling price of your car for everything (excluding the non-negotiable lawful and applicable government and/or DMV taxes and fees), in other words, just the physical vehicle itself. One you've agreed on the final price for your car and its options, including the discount, it will be put in writing and you will be asked to sign it. That ends that one specific car-purchasing component.

AFTER you have your price locked in, in writing, feel free -- or not -- to divulge how you will be paying. Of course when you DO divulge this as an unequivocal, you should stick with it.

Otherwise, the second completely separate component occurs in the office of their finance officer. This is where you can decide or even change your mind or whether you want to lease, finance or pay cash for the car. It's utterly and completely your choice. The "paperwork" and figures are all computer-generated and can be changed on the fly in seconds (you'll be signing docs on a flat desk computer screen) -- it's absolutely no problem for them whatsoever. In fact, they'll give you the entirety of your "paperwork" on a USB drive.

But to the crux of your question: More than likely, before you GET to the finance office (AFTER you've received your locked-in signed car price), it will be known how you will be paying. What will happen when the salesman/manager or finance officer finally discerns you will be paying cash on a vehicle for which they provided a healthier discount because they THOUGHT you were financing? Well, they'll be anything from chagrined, to a little pissed off. More than likely however, they'll respect you for having the savvy to have played the game to YOUR best advantage. Are you there to make the dealer a lifetime friend, or save yourself as much money as you can and simply leave with your purchase like you would a hammer or milk and bread at your local hardware or grocery store? Well, it's certainly not the former. Believe me, they'll put on a full-court press to get all the money they can squeeze from you starting with trying to get the highest price they can for the car, to expounding on the joys of LOW monthly financing payments (extra profit for them), to aggressively trying to sell you undercoating, car wheel locks, extended service and warranty packages, any and everything. It is legal? Yes. Do they care about your feelings about it? No. So likewise why should you be a chump and care about them? It's perfectly acceptable for you to run a few smoke and mirrors of your own. If they misunderstand through incorrect assumptions and you outsmart them, in this only way you can, too bad for them. If you lie outright however, well, that's just wrong.

BTW, feel free to send me a bottle of 18-yr. old Glenlivet scotch after you've saved thousands from my car-buying masterclass. haha

[Laguna Beach]

Frozen dark grey is gorgeous and frozen grey is a close second IF you’re leasing the car. If you’re keeping it you really need to do a matte ppf to protect the matte paint. Impossible to care for without ppf. Can’t buff out scratches and very hard to match on a repaint. If you’re gonna do ppf anyway I’d save 5000 on the matte paint and just get a silver color and matte ppf. Looks frozen. I’m doing that with my black Saphire this weekend.

[bnzvett1]

Originally Posted by i7newbie2024

Has anyone been able to get a deal for 2024 bmw i7 M70? Im new to BMW. Coming from Tesla (where the price is the price) and Mercedes EQS (Where there were a ton of incentives last year and a lot of dealers wanted to get rid of the cars at deep discounts)

Im wondering how things are over at BMW. The MSRP of the 2024 i7 M70 build I want is about 175K.

Could those of you who have a 2024 or 2023 i7 M70 just state below:

1. your city
2. how much you paid (whether you paid over msrp, under or at msrp)

I am also new to this forum and just started looking into getting an i7 x60. Thanks for posing this questions and thanks to all that have provided answers. You mentioned that you are coming from a Tesla and an EQS. This is perfect. I currently have a Tesla and before I started looking at the i7, I was looking into the EQS. I'm still trying to make a decision. I have driven the EQS 580 twice now and will test drive the i7 soon. If you have test driven the i7, how does the ride quality in terms of smoothness and quietness, compare between the i7 and the EQS? Also what about the difference in sound quality between the Burmester in the EQS and the B&W in the i7? I will be experiencing the B&W myself when I test drive, but I wanted to hear from someone that has lived with the Burmester for a while.

[AlteBMW]

@bnzvette1: Trying to offer some help: Are there different levels of Burmester? My wife's '23 E450 wagon has Burmester and it is noticeably inferior to both the base 7 series stereo and the BW Diamond (I have had both as my first 7 was totaled). The BMW music controls for playing off USB are also in my view way easier to manage. But the S class may get a different Burmester version and different speakers -- and I would hope Mbux is better now (those were 23's I compared, not 24's).

I did not compare ride quality of EQS and i7 because I went with ICE. I test drove an S class before I bought a 760ix and IMHO the 7 is handles better with a comparable if not better ride feel. (I did not test an S with 4 wheel steering) I also strongly preferred the BMW electronics to the MB center tablet both for placement and intuitiveness.

Buy hey, EQS is going to be a very nice car; subjectivity is fine in selecting cars. Enjoy what you pick and don't look back.

[Gemini7866]

Originally Posted by Laguna Beach

Frozen dark grey is gorgeous and frozen grey is a close second IF you’re leasing the car. If you’re keeping it you really need to do a matte ppf to protect the matte paint. Impossible to care for without ppf. Can’t buff out scratches and very hard to match on a repaint. If you’re gonna do ppf anyway I’d save 5000 on the matte paint and just get a silver color and matte ppf. Looks frozen. I’m doing that with my black Saphire this weekend.

I have frozen pure grey on my i760 I was suppose to take it to get ppf right after I took delivery because I was told the exact same thing that is stated above but instead I figured I’m going to enjoy the car for the weekend..I took delivery on a Friday and that evening In driving home a pebble or something made a small nick on the hood .saturday morning I dropped the car off for full ppf .The frozen paints are beautiful but you have to protect it because it’s a pain to maintain

[bnzvett1]

Originally Posted by AlteBMW

@bnzvette1: Trying to offer some help: Are there different levels of Burmester? My wife's '23 E450 wagon has Burmester and it is noticeably inferior to both the base 7 series stereo and the BW Diamond (I have had both as my first 7 was totaled). The BMW music controls for playing off USB are also in my view way easier to manage. But the S class may get a different Burmester version and different speakers -- and I would hope Mbux is better now (those were 23's I compared, not 24's).

I did not compare ride quality of EQS and i7 because I went with ICE. I test drove an S class before I bought a 760ix and IMHO the 7 is handles better with a comparable if not better ride feel. (I did not test an S with 4 wheel steering) I also strongly preferred the BMW electronics to the MB center tablet both for placement and intuitiveness.

Buy hey, EQS is going to be a very nice car; subjectivity is fine in selecting cars. Enjoy what you pick and don't look back.

The Burmester in the EQS is the 3D version with 15 speakers and 710 Watts. Didn't want to just crank it up and blow the speakers during the test drive, at the time I was more interested in how much exterior noise I could hear, so I kept the radio down pretty low. But now when I see the number of speakers and power rating for the B&W in the i7 I'm beginning to think that maybe the EQS is under powered. I guess I should just do another test drive, but focus on the sounds.

[Laguna Beach]

The EQS is just not a good looking car. Sorry.. And the interior quality is just not up to the i7 solidness. Things feel cheap and plasticy on the EQS. Might be for weight savings but tap on the center console and it fells hollow. They win in the aerodynamic and range category but at what cost? Hard pass.
I really thought I’d shake it up since my last 4 cars were BMW’s and my M6 engine blew up but the new S Class also felt very poorly put together. Granted I drove one with 15,000 miles but it felt like it had 150,000 with all the creaks and rattles. I am not a BMW fanboy or anti Mercedes, I’d have an AMG GT if I fit in it, but I do love my i7!