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09-25-2016, 12:52 PM | #23 |
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09-25-2016, 09:05 PM | #24 | |
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That's interesting, I don't know if I understood correctly, but what you're saying is that you can technically use any oil, and since they're so similar it won't damage your engine. To my understanding, if the oil is not specified for your engine (you use a thicker engine oil than specified or thinner one), won't that damage your engine because of the oil is too thick it won't flow and if it's too thin, it's not going to be effective in preventing friction. |
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09-25-2016, 09:14 PM | #25 | |
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09-26-2016, 09:34 AM | #26 | |
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I drained my X1 s28i at 5k miles to get an oil sample, so it ran on 0w40 for 5k more miles until BMW dealer wanted to give it an oil change. I sent off sample to Blackstone Labs, and the report showed the factory fill to be very good oil with almost no wear in metals. Factory fill 5w30 was about 10 cst @100 deg C while 0w40 runs about 12 cst, and 5w40's like T6 are about 14 cst @100 deg C thick. I can't see any trouble with any of these weights, but I continually see best reports on Mobil 1 0w40 on various cars at BITOG.com |
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09-26-2016, 09:43 AM | #27 |
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The oil weights I described are sort of mix and match on lots of cars.
Mobil 1 0w30 isn't up to the task of heat like its' 0w40 for example, but 0w30 Castrol would be. Most of the specs come about with being TESTED in the car, and getting car company to LIKE your oil. In other words, specs are more concerned with the chemistry of additives to stop acid corrosion, and sludge. I used to sell oils for machinery, and from reading specs the engineers were not that good at picking the BEST oil, just something adequate ( maybe some planned obsolescence going on). |
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10-07-2016, 10:45 AM | #28 | |
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All this is going to change as EPA ratchets down the allowed sulfur in gasoline in the next few years. On the viscosity front, BMW's LL specs restrict the stated viscosity range to 0 or 5 on the cold side, and 30-40 on the hot side. There's hardly a difference IMHO on what you choose. |
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10-07-2016, 04:39 PM | #29 | |
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BMW's official word on LL-04 oils in Petrol (gas) engines
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10-07-2016, 04:44 PM | #30 | |
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BMW Branded LL-14FE and both Fuchs Titan GT1 EVI 0W-20 and MOTOREX CONCEPT B-XL 0W-20 are LL-14 FE+ approved.
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10-15-2016, 09:30 AM | #31 | |
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Different oils have different additive packages Mixing them can negatively impact their ability to protect your engine. In fact....your best bet is to pick a quality oil and stick with that brand for the life of the car You will get longest life/least wear following this regimen assuming you are changing at an appropriate interval If you want to demonstrate/track condition of engine then do engine oil analysis with blackstone http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ Oil analysis can also help you determine what the proper oil change interval is based on climate and your driving habits Analysis can give you an idea of whats going on with break in as well as tell you when you are beginning to see components/gaskets/other failures begin before they are catastrophic expensive problems........dealers also appreciate the info because then they have indisputable proof of a problem and warranty work gets a lot easier to justify |
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10-15-2016, 01:01 PM | #32 |
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Shout Out for PP EURO 5W-40
Reasons for Choosing PP EURO ~ N55:
. Runs Clean (GTL is cleaner & supports valve cleanliness*) Low NOACK * Availability LL-01 A little thick but supports DI dilution Good Blackstone Reports Pour Point is nearly as good as Zero Weight oil -- supports Alabama Climate High Flash Point* Recommended by Pennzoil for N55 |
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08-01-2017, 06:45 AM | #33 |
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Always used pure Group 4 full Group 4 synthetic Amsoil 0w40. Meets/exceeds BMW LL-01. Read up on Amsoil and you will be convinced as well. In the LiqiMoly class or better. Use it in racing Shelby for many years as well. Engine will run smoother, less friction and cooler operating temps.
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08-01-2017, 12:46 PM | #34 |
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08-01-2017, 06:26 PM | #35 |
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Mobil 1
I've called around to all my local shops that specialize in BMW ... they all use Mobil 1 My local Bosh shop that specializes in BMW and Merc did a lab test of Mobil 1 vs BMW labeled oil ... the Mobil 1 came back more favorable from testing. This is fine by me ... my local shop charges only about $20 more for a oil change and filter than I can buy BMW oil and a filter online and do the work myself. I'll gladly pay the nominal fee every 10k miles than bother doing it myself, and not having to bother with disposing of the used oil. Plus they do a quick check and top off anything, as needed, including tire pressure. So for a small fee above doing it myself, and having to drop off my vehicle ... it's nice to have the peace of mind that it's being checked over. |
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08-01-2017, 06:47 PM | #36 | |
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BMW family... for now.
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08-01-2017, 07:28 PM | #37 |
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08-02-2017, 05:09 AM | #38 |
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'06 N52. All of the typical gaskets. 329,000 by the end of this week.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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08-02-2017, 09:27 PM | #40 |
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I've detailed ownership via threads at 200,000, 265,000, and 300,000 miles. You can find all the answers in those threads.
But in short the radio faceplate fades with heat, and the alternator went tits up about 320,000 miles. I'm on my second battery, 1 one factory delivered and 1 replacement.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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08-03-2017, 06:21 PM | #41 |
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Whatever the dealership puts into their F30s with N20 engines such as mine is what I'm currently running.
Have not looked much into upgrading or changing the engine oil, so hopefully reading the entirety of this thread could give me some insight into whether or not I should, and what to consider if I do make the switch.
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08-04-2017, 10:15 AM | #43 |
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Whatever the dealer puts in.
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08-04-2017, 01:38 PM | #44 |
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News to me? Been running Red Line for a number of years now. 10w60 for 3 years and 15w50 for the last 2. Lots of folks are switching to Motul.
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