Paint brand recommendations?

[CoralRed]

Hi All,

I’m working on swapping an N54 into my e91. Part of the process is a total m sport conversion. Since BMW didn’t offer the m sport package in crimson red, I’m going to have to paint the m sport specific body panels. I’ll probably order the bumpers pre-painted from Umnitza but I’ll have to do the rocker panels (I already have them).

I’ve never painted full car panels but I’ve been painting with various paints (acrylic, lacquer, enamel, 2k) with air guns/airbrushes for almost 3 decades at this point. I’m only 3 years into using an HVLP gun but I’m confident enough that I want to try some automotive paint.

With that said, I need some recommendations on paint brands. It seems like PPG is common in shops but I know there are lots out there. Does it just come down to finding a shop that will color match?

Thanks!

[TboneS54]

PPG is most common by far, but you could spring for the factory Glasurit.

[jaffles]

Don't think it matters. My experience with paint be it from house hold, industrial, or auto no brand will stand by warranty. Its always the applicators fault. They will find fault in your process that relieves them of replacing a tin of paint. Maybe you'll get some loving if you are a BIG account, but will never get labour let alone paint. And I can tell you just because they are a big well known company that markets a lot, doesn't mean their product is the greatest on the market. Nor the more you pay the better it gets.

I recently sprayed a car the other day, first one in 30 years. It went so well I'm now panting the E93. My advice would be trust in a good paint shop, not brand. Be guided by them on what's best or what they would do. Find a staff member who is an old sprayer of done a few themselves, that's most of them in my experience.

I bought some no name brands an it looks fantastic. The daughter then proceed to damage the paint and its held up well.

Just clean the car WELL with prepsol or some wax and grease remover, don't rely on sanding to remove it.
Then I machine sanded for most part with 500. Hand rubbed around the tricky bits with a pad.
Blew with air and tac cloth thoroughly
Touched up plastic or metals where rubbed through using appropriate primer in a aerosol can.
Single pack base coat 3 laps
Warmed clear in the microwave for 30 seconds, then 3 laps of 2k clear. Warming replaces thinners.

Did it in the garage which I had dusted and blew out well, and again with various stages of process. Take your time and allow proper flash time, its easy to be impatient. You might just jag it off the gun no runs and no polish required.

Perhaps find some old car panels and have a go to set your gun up, then close your eyes and enjoy.

[zx10guy]

The shop I use for body work uses PPG and Sikkens. Which ever paint they used for my jobs have always matched well. But as stated, the painter is the key to getting good results.

[CoralRed]

Thanks, all! That’s kinda what I figured. I’m excited for the challenge!

[Redd]

You can use a cheaper color coat but always use a high quality clear like PPG or Glasurit. It's the clearcoat that determines how long your paintjob lasts and how resistant it is to damage.

[CoralRed]

Originally Posted by Redd

You can use a cheaper color coat but always use a high quality clear like PPG or Glasurit. It's the clearcoat that determines how long your paintjob lasts and how resistant it is to damage.

I’m definitely ready and willing to get the best I can get. However, finding a place to buy PPG or Glasurit is proving to be a challenge….

[BruinMan]

Originally Posted by CoralRed

I’m definitely ready and willing to get the best I can get. However, finding a place to buy PPG or Glasurit is proving to be a challenge….

How big are the parts you need to paint? Metal or plastics?

[CoralRed]

Originally Posted by BruinMan

How big are the parts you need to paint? Metal or plastics?

Not big. A pair of side skirts and a pair of mirrors.

Edit: the side skirts are going to be red, the mirrors black.

[BruinMan]

Originally Posted by CoralRed

Not big. A pair of side skirts and a pair of mirrors.

Edit: the side skirts are going to be red, the mirrors black.

Professional auto paint is expensive.

You can purchase aerosol cans from Amazon with the color code.

Spectral Paints Compatible/Replacement for Bmw A61 Crimson Red 12 oz. Aerosol Spray Paint
https://a.co/d/5fltsZT

If the parts are plastic, be sure to use an adhesion primer first. You’ll also need a clear coat, which is available from Spectral. Apply the base in light, even coats—using as many as needed for full coverage. The clear coat is trickier: three coats are usually enough, but applying it too thick can cause orange peel. If you’re already familiar with painting, you’ll understand the importance of flashing between coats. For the best finish, the final product will need wet sanding and buffing.

[jaffles]

this might be your solution for aerosol
https://www.colorbondpaint.com/

Down the paint shop the other day I was given 3 options, but this is for a whole car. I don't see it any different for parts.

Sand and clear over the clear (only if clear is not smoky in any way.) last about 3 years.

Sand and lay down new basecoat, then clear. Last 5-7.

Sand and lay down 1 lap of adhesion promotor, then base coat, then clear. 10-15 years.

I use a 6" Festool dust extraction sander with a soft pad and 500 dry discs to do all the prep work. To sand a whole car takes about 1 hour with 20-30 minutes with a gritted soft foam pad for around headlights, door handles etc. For the dedicated a second sand with 800 of higher may take their interest but not mine.

[CoralRed]

Thank you, both!

I was hoping to avoid aerosols since I have a full HVLP set up for spraying cabinets… but it seems like it might be my best option.

[jaffles]

I have a daily hack I bought for the kids to learn how to drive a manual. I used colour matched single pack and 2K clear aerosols on a door and cleaning up a few bits and bob. The aerosol is OK.

They tend to put less out so the process is just slower with passes narrower.

[CoralRed]

I managed to find a shop that sells PPG paint to the public. I ended up getting a quart of black and some rattle can clear for the mirrors. For the red for the side skirts, I went with a single stage paint. I didn’t want to rattle can clear them and a gallon of PPG 2k clear is a whopping $500. Not a good value when I’ll use maybe 1/4 of it.

They also sold me a self-etching primer. Which is fine for metal but on plastic seems like a no go. I should have taken better note of that.

[jaffles]

ahh you see that's the kicker for wanting brand. Lucky it wasn't Spies Hecker haha. I can buy family owned locally made paint for Australian conditions, 250ml $36. Still good on you its all learning.

DON'T rely on sanding to remove polish. Wipe the parts with Mentholated spirits to clean polish off, do that more than once before sanding. Prepsol, metho, wax and grease remover etc all seem to activate the paint if you wipe it after sanding. A tack cloth to wipe over before painting to get the last of any dust is also worth it.

Etch is usually for metal, plastic primer on anything plastic, and adhesion promotor over sanded paint. Just one pass nice and thin. Rattle can or gun. Use it all or none doesn't matter but overall dictates longevity and quality.

Would have though 1/4 quart (250ml) be plenty for each job. Sorry I don't know imperial terminology. 1/4 quart of 2K clear easily put 3 laps on each. The clear is the kicker. To get it on like glass is not so easy, but small parts are much much easier than say a roof, hood etc.

I did these the other day for my son's interior and refresh my consol.